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Monday, March 8th, 2010 at 7:01 am

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On tour in China ... Lhasa

Old Lhasa is still there. The ancient shrines and old houses still standing next to the famous Palace of Potolo but the scene is changing rapidly. The modern buildings of steel and concrete are sprouting. I remember what happened to the old Jerusalem.

The Chinese authorities are struggling to maintain the physical past and the latest technology is being used for recording. In fact, they measure everything such diligence that some Tibetans fear that it is planning to cut and cart back to Beijing, where he will set himself up as a theme park. I discount this possibility. At the same time, I take the point about the theme parks. I've seen what happened to Mont St Michel and many other places that preserve its ancient buildings and the loss of their character.

Lhasa is, of course, best known for the Palace Potolo. The old residential neighborhood, is worth a visit and markets are interesting, but the palace is the real gem. It occupies a hill overlooking the city. Buildings and shrines have been in place for more than a thousand years. The present complex dates mainly from the 17th century. The palace was the residence of the Dalai Lama's winter until his flight to India. It is now a museum.

The higher buildings are red and religious in the same way as a cathedral attached to a religious monastery. These shrines house the tombs of the lamas. The smaller, white buildings, where the monks lived and worked in the old days.

Do not attempt to visit until they acclimate. It's easy to get off a plane and think you can cope with the altitude. Trauma start when you exert yourself. There is a big raise from the ticket booth at the entrance to the palace and the suite of the Dalai Lama at the top.

When we were there, a construction crew Tibetan was making repairs to one of the terraces. It seemed like a common effort. No modern machinery was used. As many women as men and all had traditional clothing. Baskets were carried wooden mortar stairs. Girls with tea wins followed. Older women back and forth on the line, the mixing of mortar with their feet - all the songs of the time. It was as if a party was going on and build things was one of the games. I have the impression that it is an everyday occurrence. In any case, some friends were there six months later and saw the same thing.

The palace is higher than that begins to get interesting. The palace is clinging to the rock and hidden in it. Giant statues standing in the chambers lit by lamps burning yak butter. Wondering how the building can withstand the colossal weight, then realize that the statues are set into solid rock and is within a cave. Sound of gongs, the movement of stale smoke from the shrines and incense fills the air. It is not difficult to feel yourself transported to a time when the monks still worship there.

They climb higher and out of the shadows. Corrientes of daylight in rooms painted in bright colors and lights up fantastic images of saints and demons. They stare down at you from nooks and crannies, and standing in niches. Go ahead and get the private rooms of the Dalai Lama, on the top floor.

I was reminded of the visit, many years ago, the palace Pope's summer at Castel Gandolfo. Its private rooms were not on the top floor. That honor went to Jesuit astronomers had a telescope on the roof. I know because I was an astronomer at the time and was there to talk about astronomy. My only memory of the meeting is of a piece of paper that blew a window ledge. They loop the loop before our eyes and into the window below - to the chagrin of the Jesuits. A man returned the paper a little later saying that His Holiness recognizes the writing as astronomical. Please be more careful in the future.

The Dalai Lama was in residence when I entered his room and not risk was bothering him. His Holiness had gone to live in India and that his room was open to tourists like me. I spent some time examining the furniture humble. Certainly there was no sign of extravagance. It reminded me that he likes to refer to himself as a humble monk.

In some respects, their position is like a hereditary monarch. He was not elected to the position. He was elected to a very young age and raised by monks in a monastery. Unlike their docks in the churches Islamic and Christian had no competition and no choice. That got the job and must do their best in a difficult situation.

After I visited the palace was near the Jokhang Temple. Seventh-century Buddha statues and preserves, including the revered Buddha Sakyamuni Jowo. Pilgrims come from throughout Tibet and beyond to make the trip ritual of walking around the temple. I watched for some time, and recalled that the mother of my friend Kangri had expressed his desire to make the pilgrimage to Lhasa before he died. Despite the modern buildings and tourist cameras, Lhasa remains one of the holiest places of the Earth.

My picture (above) is Potolo Palace.

For more: http://mikestales.wordpress.com

About the Author

I either started off on the wrong foot or I'm the legendry rolling stone. Normally, a degree in astrophysics does not lead to a stint in Parliament House, public relations, backpacker resorts and the diving industry. But that's what happened to me. I'm now retired in the sense that I no longer need to work for a living and that gives me a lot of time for travelling and writing.

My web pages:

http://shadymike.wordpress.com

http://mikestales.wordpress.com

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